CHRISTMAS IN PANAMA

Christmas Movie Question:  

How is your wife? I have been extra good this year, so I have a long list of presents that I want.    Please note the size and color of each item and send AS MANY as possible!" This is a line from which holiday classic?

Geoffrey Tamarin Monkeys

I am a major romantic at heart, so I have to set the stage describing where I am now writing this blog. You know that the U.S.took over the building of the Panama Canal during the presidency of Theodore Roosevelt.  It was finished in 1914 and the first U.S. steamer made it's way from the Atlantic to the Pacific via the canal on August 15th of that year.  The U.S.  managed the canal until the end of the 20th century, 1999 to be exact. At that time,  it was handed back to the Panamanian people.  

The B&B we are staying is remodeled military housing from the 1940's/50's era - La Estancia in Cerro Ancon.  The housing looks like something out of Casa Blanca and this must have been a pretty sweet posting back then.  Mind you, there was no air conditioning, so it was hot, but according to what I've read there was a lot of golf, BBQ's and socializing among the Americans - good schools too.  Not so romantic for the Panamanians who were not living in the same style, but need to add that it was for many reasons - not just the U.S. presence.  

Today, it is very hot and steamy in Panama City and pouring tropical buckets full of rain.  Right off our balcony are Geoffrey Tamarin monkeys gorging themselves on bananas - the pouring rain did not deter them in the least.  Two of them are pictured above.  Colorful birds of every variety as well.  Not a bird watcher, so have nothing intelligent to say beyond that.  

Central Park, Boquete Panama

We arrived in Panama on September 18th and will be flying home for Christmas day after tomorrow on December 19th.  The first 3 months flew by.  Just a few weeks after arriving, we arrived in Boquete in Chiriqui Province with absolutely no idea that we would want to make that our home.  We have been there ever since.  As we were driving to Panama City today, I was considering how I feel about Panama now after our first three months.

• Love the community of Boquete.  It is really a community with lots of shops, grocery stores, restaurants, churches, clubs and activities.  It is one of the most picturesque places I have ever lived.  It is unspoiled, safe and sweet.
• The local people are kind and welcoming. I have learned a lot of Spanish and have Panamanian neighbors who spend time talking with me and laughing together as I try to speak Spanish and they try to speak English.  Learning new things every day and it is so much fun. 
• Admire the Panamanians.  They live life at a much slower pace, which can drive you NUTS if you let it, but if you have the expectation that it is going to take a while, you can enjoy it.  EVENTUALLY, it all gets done and I definitely get the impression that no one worries about their job after office hours are over!!!
• My stress level has gone down significantly.  Mind you, we still have a lot to figure out, but I really believe that we can make a living here and strive to enjoy the process along the way. 
• Miss my kids and grandchildren a lot.  Skype is a great technology, but does not replace in-person hugs or conversations.  Seeing them 3 or 4 times a year is a must.   
• CONCLUSION:  I really, really like it here.  Would not be willing to commit to anything forever, but for now, I am extremely content with our decision to make Panama our new home.  

ANSWER:  Charlie Brown's sister, Sally, said this in Charlie Brown Christmas (1965)

FOOD PRODUCTION HYDROPONICS IN PANAMA

See the bananas growing from the flower?

DECIDE TO BE INDEPENDENT

• Think and plan ahead
• Get your assets liquid
• Live well, but simply
• Read, research and be well-informed
• Consciously enjoy life and those around you - LAUGH!
• THINK AND PLAN! AHEAD

Spent the afternoon today with an entrepreneur - creative, very intelligent, informed and fiercely independent!  Our visit lasted almost 3 hours and most of the time, we just listened.  The reason for our visit was to tour his hydroponics farm - they grow several different kinds of lettuce, tomatoes, herbs, but the majority of the time we discussed how important it is to be personally responsible and prepared to take care of yourself and your family.  If there was a major emergency in your world, how would you have clean water, food to eat and how would you respond to medical needs.  If the government is shut down for a while and the grocery store shelves go bare - what to do?  No doom and gloom here, but a major reality check.  Survival course sort of.

LETTUCE HAVE SALAD!

It is a closed water system, so very water-efficient.  They use all natural methods to fend off critters that like to eat produce. Primarily they use other plants and neem oil.  Sunflowers, for instance, are a natural deterrent for white flies.  He also gave us quite a lecture on GMO's - genetically modified foods and the hazards he thinks they pose to human health.  I'll have to look into that one.


NEEM OIL:  

The Girls

Neem oil is a vegetable oil pressed from the fruits and seeds of the neem.  It's an evergreen tree which is grown in the tropics, including Panama, but hails originally from the Indian subcontinent.  Although in researching, found that it has many uses and can be taken orally by humans, supposed to have an extremely nasty taste!

USES;

Neem oil has many different uses and benefits...

• A natural insect repellent
• A safe pesticide
• A fertilizer
• A skin care ingredient
• A contraceptive
• A medicine with hundreds of different uses...

Farmers here are still allowed to use insecticides that were banned long ago in the U.S. so I have been on the hunt for veggies grown without said chemicals.  

Our host also grows his own bananas, oranges and has a chicken coop full of beautiful, noisy layers.  

Hydroponic Lettuce

BANANAS:  FOOD AND FODDER:  Though the banana plant very much resembles a palm tree, it's actually considered a perennial herb. Who knew?  

• It dies back after each fruiting and produces new growth for the next generation of fruit. The old foliage is removed and makes excellent fodder :  for chickens - they love it!  
• The fruit grows all over Boquete - a little smaller than the bananas you'll see at the market in the U.S. and SOOOOOO sweet.  
• No wonder, when they're ripe they contain 66% Sucrose, 14% Fructose and 20% Glucose - yup, almost all sugar.  
• They are harvested while they're still green because apparently, the ripening process doesn't begin in earnest till they're harvested. 

STEVIA:  EVEN THE LEAVES TASTE SWEET

Speaking of sweets - the Stevia Plant

This was the first time, I'd tasted Stevia.  I've seen it in the grocery store - think it comes as a liquid, but the leaves straight from the plant taste very sweet.  Not a chemical, can use just like sugar.  I'll have to try this one.  Again, sugar is something I'd really like to have be a minor part of my diet.  Coffee and red wine - GOOD FOR YOU!  Fat (excluding olive oil of course) and Sugar - BAD FOR YOU.

CHICKENS:  At the end of our time together, our host gave us a tour of his beautiful chickens.  They are very fond of banana leaves and him!  They are all layers and usually are good producers for several years before they take a long ride to become something else.....

I can attest that while they are at his farm, they have a healthy, free and happy life.

TOOKIE:  Our host has a pet toucan that he raised from a chick.  Favorite past time was flying within inches of my ears.  So fun to see him close up.  Crazy creature and so colorful.  

"Tookie"

BREADMAKING

I know, I know..."Stand Up Straight!"

Dining Al Fresco

The bread making class was held in the most adorable little cottage.  It was open plan kitchen / dining/ living room (with fireplace) and had great LIGHTING!!  I note this because poor lighting is so......common in Panama.  Can never see what you're doing.  Our instructor is a gringo and a cook - so he has lights everywhere - a man after my own heart.  Charming local Panamanian art all around; cookbooks everywhere and lots of interesting, friendly wanna-be bakers like myself - a great recipe for a fun day!

Turns out that Boquete has an almost perfect climate for bread making - always about 75 degrees (room temperature) so no fuss about making the ingredients warmer or cooler.

ARTISAN BAKING

Traditionally, Panamanian baking is rice and corn-based, not grain-based like the U.S.  For this reason, good flour is harder to come by.  Artisan bakers, both Panamanian and Gringo, are beginning to spring up and creating a demand for good flour products though and several have excellent bakeries in the Boquete area much to the delight of carb-lovers like me.  We made challah bread and rosca bread with candied fruits (which are ridiculously inexpensive here).  Had fun experimenting with different braids and shapes - only limit is your imagination here.

COMPOSED SALAD LUNCH

The bread baking was followed by a lovely lunch including a composed salad with home made dressings.  Recipe for the French Tomato Dressing follows.  It was DELICIOUS and I highly recommend.  Sampled 3 different wines (all under $6) which were fabulous and ended with some excellent vanilla ice cream.  Left full, talked out and with two loaves of pretty good bread, if I do say so myself.  Class organizers did a great job with enough utensils for all, pretty take home Christmas apron and cake plate

I did it!  Yummy too.

Fabulous Panamanian baker and talented!

FRENCH TOMATO DRESSING:  Mix in blender.  Refrigerate when not using.

1 Can Tomato Soup
3/4 Cup Vegetable Oil
1/2 Cup Cider Vinegar
3/4 Cup Sugar
1 teaspoon Paprika
1/2 teaspoon Black Pepper
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1 1/4 teaspoons Prepared Mustard
1 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce

PRIORITY MAIL PANAMA STYLE

As with most things in Panama, you need to bring your patience and your sense of humor along.  After inquiring at Mail Boxes etc, it was going to cost a lot of moolah to send a cell phone back home to Colorado.  Heard from a friend that the local postal service has a version of "Priority Mail" and decided to give it a try - $15 versus $40 at Mailbox Etc.

First Visit to Post Office (El Correo)

Went to store and got wrapping pager and packing tape.

Wrapped, taped and addressed mobile phone and accessories to send to Colorado.

Took phone package, all wrapped up and taped to post office a week ago Friday. 

No tape allowed, told that package must be glued only.

Second Visit to Post Office 

Went to store and bought more wrapping paper and glue.

Wrapped and glued ...  a multi-step process with elmer like glue, one end/side at a time, and packaged items..

Very proud of ourserlves for completiing, took wrapped and glued package to post office today.

No good. Told that they have to inspect what is in the package, hmmm...they didn't mention this before and we didn't see the sign..  LOL

Ripped open glued package so they could visually inspect the contents.

Surprise - Well you never asked!!

They then produced a plastic shipping mailing envelope ... which wasn't produced a week before( we asked, but maybe they did not understand our version of Spanish??) and when they told us the package had to be glued, and inserted inspected items into plastic "EMS" mailing envelope.

Had to leave post office and go over to copy store and get a copy of my passport for the post office to keep.

Returned to the post office with copy of passport and gave it to the counter person.

Gracias Senor, that is "all" that was needed.  What, no copy of the videotape of my birth, no "shrubbery"??

I didn't dare ask how long it would take as the young woman who spoke English who helped me through the process was no longer there.

Wrote on package "broken phone - doesn't work in Panama" and claimed 0 value.

It is in the Panama postal system for delivery.

Good luck ever seeing that package.

Getting started living in Panama

THE BEST THING TO MAKE FOR THANKSGIVING IS RESERVATIONS!!

Happy Thanksgiving to friends and family!  I am writing from Boquete, Panama and it is a beautiful, breezy day about 75-80 degrees.  Joe and I will be having a holiday lunch today with about 20 other expats in Los Molinos, the community we'll be living in as of January.  Don't know if it will include turkey, but I do know that there will be no cooking or cleaning up required, so I am all over it!!  Love to cook, but anyone who has done the T-Day feast knows that it is a labor of love and one of the best parts of the day is a quiet glass of wine on the couch after the last dish has been dried and put away.  Or maybe the turkey sandwich (with stuffing) at about 10 O'clock, yes?

VISA APPLICATION

Have been remiss on posting the past few weeks as the majority of our time has been spent doing the prep work for getting our permanent residency visas in process, setting up a bank account and most importantly, getting Joe a small motorcycle so he can tour the hillsides!

Panama has debuted several new visa options recently and the one we have applied for will give us permanent residency and option to apply for a permit to work in Panama, which we will want to do.  Primarily the new options are to attract skilled workers to Panama to provide a ready workforce for their burgeoning economy.  Secondly, to attract business investment and the creation of small businesses which, of course, will mean more jobs for Panamanians.  Besides your passports, you need an FBI report (Joe was wise and had this done before we traveled here), a local bank account, and lots of documents confirming that you are a person in good standing.  According to our lawyer, we should have our temporary residency cards before we travel home for Christmas.  This is especially good because without this card, you are required to leave the country every 6 months.

BANK ACCOUNT

Here in Panama, you have to be introduced by a local of good standing to a bank manager to apply for a bank account.  Again, you have to have several local folks attest that you are a citizen in good standing, letters from previous banks saying that you are a good customer, FBI report etc just to APPLY!  Often this process from start to receiving your account number can be 4-6 months.  We are expecting to have our account up and operating next week - time from start to finish less than one months!! Thank you, Lord.

NETWORKING

We spend a great deal of time networking and soaking up the information that so many kind and experienced expats are willing to share.  Once we are established, we will be certain to "pay it forward" and help the next newbies here.  There is SO much to know in order to make life easier, more fun and how to buy and live smart.  It takes a LOT of time, but has been invaluable.

We have been hiking three times a week with a hiking group.  Each hike is about two to three hours and you spend the time exercising while meeting new people - and it's free!  Networking is where you find out about the best place to buy or do this or that, real estate opps that are not listed, people who are looking for investment partners, home rentals and services, where to get a good haircut/manicure/teeth cleaning/dog grooming/grocery item etc.  Also, you meet folks almost everytime you eat out.  $4 for lunch and priceless amount of info - good idea.

IF YOU BUILD IT THEY WILL COME

We are spending a lot of time researching casitas - plans and how to build them.  We met with a family this week who are building with pressure-treated wood and greenboard.  Totally new for Panama, where almost all construction is from concrete block.  Superior product in every way and very cost-effective too.  These would make great long-term or short-term rentals / sales and you can even purchase some of these as kits - ready to assemble on your lot.  Great idea.

Most every expat we meet is here for a number of reasons, but almost without exception, the major reason is that they see the writing on the wall for the economy back home and are looking to diversify.  The economy here, which is multi-faceted, is booming with a growing middle class.

THE PEOPLE

Even those who have very little according to US standards, and that's most people, have a lovely and friendly attitude.  Not uncommon for folks to stop what they're doing to assist you with directions or to try and understand and/or translate my terrible Spanish in a store.  Uncommon kindness is a lot more common here.

RECOVERING TYPE A's

It has taken me these last 2 months to calm down.  I never thought I was a Type A, but maybe I became over the years as job and life just kept getting faster and faster - survive or drown right?  Like someone going to AA for the first time, I am admitting to possible Type A and perfectionist tendencies and am on the road to recovery!!

Happy Thanksgiving to all!  We all have much to be thankful here and in the United States - still one of the best places on earth.  Special thanks to our military men and women who fight daily for our liberty, may we always protect, appreciate and defend it.

Cooking in Panama

NGOBE INDIAN MOM AND DAUGHTER

DINNER TONIGHT

CARVED TREE TRUNK

Butternut Squash soup last night, Pasta Fagioli tonight for dinner.  Yea, yea, I know - doesn't sound very Panamanian, but I am planning chicken enchiladas tomorrow night!  It has been a pleasure and a challenge to cook in Panama so far.  The fruits are excellent, they have a bumper crop of carrots, bell peppers, squash, and fresh ginger but some things are surprisingly hard to get - spinach, cilantro, basil, decent beef - just to name a few.  Fortunately, all incredibly inexpensive I might add.  We are so....spoiled in the U.S. where, no matter the time of year, we have most any vegetable you can imagine available to us.  Our proximity to the second largest city in Panama, David (pronounced Da-veed), only about 30 minutes away really helps.  They have 3 large supermarket chains there and if you shop all 3, you can usually get what you need or a good alternative.  Patience is not one of my original spiritual gifts, but I believe that I am growing in this area!!    Also, not always easy to get the spices you want so you have to be creative.    

FOOD ENTREPRENEURS

MY FAVORITE HOUSE SO FAR

Went in to a little local grocery called the Food Box (how cute) yesterday and they had some really unique items I had not seen in the grocery stores. Being as this was a small, neighborhood (7/11-type) place, I was surprised and started a conversation with the lady at the checkout.  She is a Muslim woman married to a Jew (check that out) and was one of the happiest souls I have had the pleasure of meeting here.  Anyway, her sister lives in Saudi Arabia and frequently travels back and forth to Boquete.  She gives her a list of customer requests for specialty items / spices, etc and she brings back a few each time she returns for a visit.

HILLSIDE OF SAME DEVELOPMENT-CHARMING

Long story short,  if you are enterprising and willing to shop a bit, you can get almost everything you need.  I think I forgot to mention, but fish here is fresh, inexpensive and fabulous!!    
Corvina (Sea Bass) and Dorado (Mahi-Mahi) are readily available and excellent.  About $6/pound.

COOKING WITH THE INTERNET

It must have been a trial before the internet, but no need to carry recipe books anymore.  I have all my favorite recipes and chefs available to me 24/7.  Need a recipe from Giada for Pasta Fagioli?  No problem.  Forgot the ingredients for pina colada mix - it's all right there.  Need a recipe for taco seasoning which I can't find here? Truely, you have your whole food library right on the internet.

ALSO VERY NICE

Boquete has a number of informational sites where folks can flog their products.  As the holidays are approaching, there are expats who have formed a catering / take-home business where you can purchase any number of fabulous appetizers, dinners, etc.  Fabulous cakes and pastries (really, really good).  You can pick them up or a delivery guy will whiz them over to you for a couple bucks.  Have not used that yet, but would be great to supplement a dinner party with a fancy appetizer or an impressive dessert.

Our current condo is fairly well-equipped and I'm enjoying cooking here.  The knives are dull - working on where to get them sharpened.  Unfortunately, the door on my oven is falling off, so can't use till it is repaired.  As this could take weeks, I'm majoring on what you can cook on the stovetop or toaster oven.  We visited a gorgeous housing development this week - would love to build there - and spent a lovely couple of hours visiting with the developer and his wife.  They are Expats as well.  Anyway, I told him I'd love to have a really nice kitchen and good appliances, but if those expensive appliances need repair, what do you do?  He sheepishly said that you have to take the appliance TO the repairman!  Yup, load it up in the pickup and haul it to the city.  I'm sure that over time, there will be repairmen who can do this, but not yet!  LOL.  We have seen some really lovely areas here for potential home sites and are going to view a bank-owned home today.  I think our best plan would be to purchase a lot where we could build several casitas that we can rent out, a main house for us and perhaps a plunge pool in between.  That would give us some passive income.  Also weighing the pros and cons of living in a gated community.  Although they provide more security (haven't really heard of a big crime problem, but a few) you have to deal with HOA's.  Have lots of real estate to see today, followed by Happy Hour at 5 down the street.  Hasta Pronto!

INFORMATION GATHERING IN PANAMA

Boquete Baru - Lunch and dinner favorite!

EATING AND NETWORKING 

Turns out that eating and networking in Panama are one in the same.  As we eat our way through all the local Boquete restaurants, bar and grills, buffets, bakeries and ice cream shops we find new acquaintances with a brains-trust of know-how on all things Panamanian.  One caveat - we have found that conversations prior to Happy Hour yield better advice!

Thanks to these mealtime meetings, we have:

Boquete Square just out front of Central Park.

Central Park - go there for breakfast.  Good coffee and hojaldres - fried dough!

• secured for ourselves a lovely rental condo and are working on a "pet-friendly" home for our return in January with our two pups, Sammy and Polly
• got the skinny on where to buy the best meats, fish and vegetables
• joined Price Smart (Panama Costco and worth it!)
• gotten some direction on things we can do to earn some money here - some interesting developments
• found out that there are MANY micro-climates here - so when looking for land/homes be sure to visit them several times.  Temperature, wind and rain can vary substantially within just a few miles.
• come to know where you can "potentially" receive your license plate from Panama City which you've been waiting for for quite a while, but still have not received!!! (see earlier blog on buying a car in Panama) - more on that later.....
• discovered that Boquete is just like any "small town".  Everyone knows everyone, so be careful what you say (or write on your blog)!! Make sure it's true and meant kindly.
• enjoyed laughing with locals while we try to communicate together.  Laughter can transcend geography, age and culture - who doesn't like to have fun!!!  You have to be willing to humble yourself and be silly sometimes.
• discovered that there are still many people who are generous of spirit, kindhearted and give of their time, talents and energy for nothing more than a sincere thank you.
• worshiped with the family of God in several Boquete congregations.  Thankfully, the family is here as well and we have received a warm welcome everywhere.

This is Finca "I can't remember the name!" LOL

$125/NIGHT IN HIGH SEASON!

WHAT WE DO BETWEEN MEALS!

We spend part of everyday driving a new road through the mountainside.  Searching for rental homes, investment opportunities, etc.  Yesterday, we found Boquete Plantation which was gorgeous and this sweet boutique hotel was just next door.  The owners of the property, which is still a working coffee finca (farm) are originally from Norway and the architecture reflects that.  Each lovely unit includes a small front porch with your own wood-burning fireplace.  Only about 10 minutes from downtown Boquete.  The final two pictures are reflective of what we see all around us here - farmland and livestock.  The condo we're living in right now is right on the main drag heading into Boquete, but still very rural.  I was up early this morning reading my bible - the sun was just starting to rise, but I had a hard time concentrating with all the racket!  The dogs were barking, the roosters were crowing and the cows were mooing!!!  Pretty funny.....

This area produces most of the vegetables for the whole country!

"Norman" - just off my deck!